An Early Start to a One-of-a-Kind Day

September 29

Our plan was to have a wholesome breakfast before starting the day's 660-foot climb on our walk to Fromista.  When we learned the kitchen would not open for at least an hour, our Camino family of 6 headed out in the dark. We made it to the top of the hill just as the sun was rising over the valley floor.

 

The walk downhill took us through the natural beauty of farmland and rivers. We also came upon a 13th century hospital that had been restored into the beautiful Albergue San Nicolas, which was illuminated by candlelight and offered the ritual of "washing of the feet." It is said to be a blessing to find a bed there and, after a short visit, I could understand why.

Otherwise, it was a day of strolling along tree-lined paths, taking a rest on a park bench, or simply contemplating . . .

Fromista, our destination, is a town of 840 people known for its pilgrim hospitals and Romanesque and Gothic churches. So you can imagine my surprise when we walked into our hotel - Dona Mayor - a hidden gem of modern comfort. My dusty hiking boots and backpack seemed a bit out of place but one thing I am learning on the Camino is to embrace the unexpected, and I am happy to be getting more practice.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

25 Miles of Pure Cruising!

September 27 - 28

After a day of rest in Burgos, I was ready to enter the next region of our walk into the relative wilderness of the Meseta. Over the next 2 days, our new family of peregrinos - Mary & Lisa, Mary & Cela and Bill & I - travelled through endless crop fields and into ancient pilgrim cities. The walks were short - no more than 13 miles - and mostly on level ground. They were casual and free-spirited. Passing pilgrims often joined in on our dynamic conversations and contagious laughter. It was a great opportunity to take flight!

On a more serious note, along the road to Hornillos, we strolled through the town of Rabe de las Calzadas and were treated to a classic pilgrim village and 13th century church. The way to Castrojeriz was punctuated with reminders of those who paved the way many centuries ago, such as the ruins of the Convent of San Anton.

Perhaps most inspiring, we met a young man who was walking the Camino with his 20-year-old brother with cerebral palsy. By the time we met the brothers, they had been joined by other pilgrims. The team was pushing the wheelchair and carrying the younger brother over terrain that was otherwise impassable. We all walked away with a different perspective on the discomfort of our blisters and the weight of our backpacks. There is little doubt that the brothers will find their way to Santiago while touching the lives of hundreds of their fellow pilgrims - and motivating many to go beyond what they ever thought possible!

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~  

On to Burgos for a Day of Rest

September 25 - 26

I started the day feeling more like myself  . . .  helped, no doubt, by knowing that all I had to do was walk another 13 miles to Burgos where I would have a day of rest!  We left as a group of pilgrims, joined by Mary and Lisa (the childhood friends from California who you met yesterday) and Cela and Mary (nicknamed the Minnesota twins). It was an uplifting morning along a peaceful path up to the cross at Cruz de Matagranda, past a dilapidated church, and through beautiful parkland where some of us refreshed our feet in the frigid river water.

Burgos is an architectural jewel with the Catedral de Burgos as its centerpiece. With its 21 magnificent chapels, it represents the evolution of Gothic art created by the great master builders and architects over a period of about 300 years from 1221 to 1567. However, what will remain with me long after I leave Burgos is the memory of attending Mass with friends who were sharing the joys and challenges of walking the Camino.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

A Moment of Truth — Do I or Don't I?

September 24

The night before the longest walk yet - 22 plus miles to Atapuerca - my body was invaded with the most inopportune flu symptoms. My first line of defense was to visit Bill's traveling pharmacy.  Despite his wide array of medicine, I was not able to overcome my nausea by morning.  I had quite a dilemma on my hands. I had promised myself long ago that I would walk every mile of the Camino absent some life threatening event. Now was my moment of truth - do I walk or don't I? I had no idea how I could walk even 2 miles in my condition but I knew I at least had to try. Bill, the trouper that he is, agreed to stay the course with me.

I don't recall much of the day other than some of the daunting uphills, my frequent detours into the woods, and stops to "regroup" as I would call them. Bill shared "nursing" duties with Mary and Lisa, two fellow peregrinos we had enjoyed walking with, who could not have been kinder. It was a delicate balance between distracting me with stories and leaving me alone to deal with the situation as best I could.

We finally arrived in Atapuerca about 8 hours later and I was never so happy to stumble into my small second-floor room for the night.  Before too long, there was a knock on the door as Bill and Lisa brought me a steaming bowl of white rice and vegetable soup.  Quite frankly, I don't know how I managed to walk these 22 plus miles but I have a strong suspicion that the power of the Camino, along with the incredible support of Bill, Mary and Lisa, had a lot to do with it.  Tomorrow will no doubt be a better walking day . . .

                                                              ~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

My Feet Are Back in the Game

September 23

I fully understood when I left this morning that the upcoming route to Belorado would have little shelter and would run parallel to the busy main road for long stretches. Thanks to the good graces of the Camino Gods, we were protected by the clouds and cooler weather for most of the walk.

And yes, my feet are back in the game . . . they "comfortably" took me the 14-mile distance. I celebrated our new understanding with a cafe con leche along the way. For those who have asked, I do miss my daily Starbucks - and the wonderful baristas - but the Spanish cafe con leche is an excellent substitute at least for the short term. Returning to feet for a moment, you should know that Bill's are cooperating quite well and have not needed as much as a bandage. 

My resting place for the night was the charming town of Belorado with about 2,000 people.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

A Tranquil Walk to Santo Domingo

September 22

After 2 long and tedious days, the tranquil walk to Santo Domingo was a welcomed change today. Starting with the rising sun in the crisp morning air, we travelled wide country roads through lush vineyards and remote farmlands for most of the way.

Fourteen miles later, we entered the ancient town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, which is intimately linked to the Camino. The story is told that, after being turned away by Benedictine monasteries, Domingo Garcia (later Saint Dominic) dedicated his life to improving the route for pilgrims in the 11th century. He built a hospital, now the magnificent Parador de Santo Domingo where we stayed, and a church that evolved into the historic Cathedral in the town square of Plaza del Santo. The Cathedral is famous for housing a pair of live hen and rooster in a gothic henhouse to commemorate a miracle by Saint Dominic. Too long to tell here - I know that our dear friend Camino Jim would be more than happy to regale you with the story.  

Oh, I know many of you are wondering about my feet. They are slowly improving but still have not fully accepted the fact that I will not abort the 500-mile walk no matter how they try to dissuade me. So I have proposed a truce - I will slow down the pace and give my feet a breather every few hours and, in return, they will transport me to Santiago with at least a modicum of comfort. I am doing my part and patiently waiting to see how my feet will transport me to Belorado tomorrow.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

A Tough Couple of Days

September 20 - 21

The last couple of days have been the toughest for me so far. The walks were quite long, 17.5 and 18.8 miles to be exact. There were few scenic distractions, especially today when we walked endless miles in the hot sun along fast moving traffic. And my feet were killing me! During this most recent stretch, we will have walked 9 straight days covering 135 miles before we get a day of rest - 5 more days and 75 miles to go until we arrive in Burgos for that much needed respite. I must admit that Bill's offhanded suggestion that we hop on a Vespa had some momentary appeal. But the Camino is supposed to be tough, I know, so we stayed the course.

However challenging, the Camino always delivers something rewarding for those who are looking. During our walk to Logroño, we came upon the remarkable 12th century Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the great wine-producing region of  La Rioja, and finally Logroño - a city with an interesting blend of medieval and modern architecture.

All's well that ends well. . . we celebrated the completion of the first of 5 stages of the walk with our friends Wendy and Graham over a hearty meal and excellent Rioja wine. We will miss our fellow pilgrims who are leaving us in Logroño to spend a few days of rest on the beaches of Spain before returning to Australia to plan their next adventure. 

The next day's walk to Najera was quite brutal for me but it offered a couple redeeming happenings. Early on, we came upon "Lord Camino" who was greeting passing pilgrims with food and blessings. After receiving my special blessing, I had myself convinced that my feet had been cured . . . at least for the next mile. And at the end of the day, we gathered in the square with other pilgrims to refuel our tanks and exchange stories about our personal experiences on the Camino. I have already learned that not knowing what is in store for tomorrow is simply part of the journey - and a good lesson for me!

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

                                               

My Feet Pass Their First Real Test on the Walk to Los Arcos

September 19

What I did not share with you yesterday - to avoid spoiling the moment - is that my feet were letting me down.  Nothing debilitating, but small blisters and sore spots were starting to nag me. How could this happen? I had done everything I was supposed to do to prepare them for the Camino and had finished the most difficult walks with a spring in my step! I was not going to be among those pilgrims I had seen limping along or stopping by the side of the path to nurse their feet. So, I got up early this morning to give my feet extra attention (and a stern talking-to) before heading out for the 14-mile hike to Los Arcos. Bill, by the way, has not had any issue with his feet - at least for now.

Well, I am happy to report that my feet survived the walk today . . . thanks in no small part to the gentle path through open countryside and quiet villages. We also had the uplifting companionship of two other pilgrims, Wendy and Graham, a delightful couple from Australia who spend much of their retired life hiking and exploring the world.

The day began with a short walk to Bodegas Irache and its famous wine fountain Fuentes del Vino.  After fortifying ourselves for the journey ahead, we wound our way through the countryside and along the ridge surrounding the conical peak of Monjardin and into its lovely village dominated by the tower of the 12th century San Andres Church.

After a long morning of walking, we stopped at Cafe Movil - a popular food truck for pilgrims who want to refuel and listen to music - before making our final descent into the Roman village of Los Arcos.

The evening ended with a pilgrims' Mass at the magnificent Iglesias de Santa Maria. Hopefully, my prayer for a purposeful and healthy journey to Santiago will be answered. And let's keep our fingers crossed that my feet will travel well tomorrow. 

~Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

                                       

Beyond Words . . .

September 18

Today's 15-mile walk to Estella was absolutely beautiful and so incredibly relaxing that it actually brought me - yes, it did - to the brink of a meditative state! Nothing I could write would do justice to what I experienced so I share my day's walk through these photos . . .

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~