An Uphill Climb Through the Fog and Into Galicia

October 13

Today's walk was a short but steep 800-foot climb to O'Cebreiro and into the region of Galicia. Here is the home of Iglesia de Santa Maria Real, dating from the 9th century and the oldest existing church associated directly with the Camino Santiago. The church also marks the resting place of Don Elias Valina Sampedro, a parish priest who did so much to preserve the integrity of the pilgrim way and introduced the idea of marking the route with the familiar yellow arrows.

There was definitely a chill in the air with expected temperatures reaching the low 60's. My feet had comfortably settled into a routine long ago and were ready for any terrain. I was crossing into new territory and starting the final stage of the Camino. The day provided a wonderful preview of the intimate pastures and lush countryside distinctive of the Galician region.

We also experienced a drastic change in weather that is so typical of Galicia. The clash between the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic and the Galician mountains creates frequent rain showers and thick mountain fog. As we climbed through periods of sunshine and rain, we stopped to make several wardrobe adjustments. There were even times when we disappeared in the fog . . .

True pilgrims at heart, we found time to enjoy one another and take in the local culture.

Even under a layer of fog, I managed to explore the small town of O'Cebreiro and make my way up the stairs to my room at the end of yet another good day.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

A Change in Weather But Not in Mood

October 12

Looking back, I now realize that my sleeping quarters last night set the stage for today's walk. As a bit of background, when we arrived in Villafranca, Cela, Mary and Bill were shown to their lovely rooms on the first floor, each with a unique decor and suite designation. My room would be a floor higher - a good thing so I thought - until I discovered that I was being escorted to the attic. Not to worry, I was told - I would be staying in the "El nidito" ("my little nest") suite.  Have a look . . . 

True to the Camino, things happen for a reason. That evening, there was a downpour and that "little nest" under the skylight was the best seat in the house. It also put me in the right mood for the rainy weather expected for the day.

By morning, the rain slowed to a drizzle. We lingered over breakfast and, as good pilgrims should, we set out on our 14-mile walk to Herrerias del Valcarce with our rain ponchos ready on a moment's notice. But the fog eventually lifted and the rain never came.

We stayed the course, taking time to explore the chestnut woodlands and just hang out . . .

Even better, we were reminded that we only had 190 kilometers - 118 miles - to Santiago.

~ Buen Camino, Carol 

Finding My Way

October 11

As many of you know, I do not have much of a sense of direction. In fact, one of my husband Floyd's biggest concerns when I announced that I wanted to walk the Camino was how I would find my way from St. Jean, France to Santiago, Spain. Camino Jim's stories about getting lost, walking many miles in the wrong direction, and having to find a place to sleep in a strange town did not help my cause.

If the truth be known, I have been at the mercy of Bill and Cela who instinctively know whether to go right or left and are quite adept at reading maps. My contribution to the cause has been searching for the yellow arrows and Camino shells that guide the pilgrims in the right direction. Today I was called to task. Not only was the walk to Villafranca del Bierzo one of the longest - 20 plus miles - but we were warned that finding the waymarks required extra vigilance.

So what do those yellow arrows and iconic shells look like and where are they posted along the way? The simple answer is that they take many different forms and can be found just about anywhere.

Some are the typical Camino blue and yellow signs that are very easy to spot.

Others are on stone and found at the entrance of a trail to guide you to a new path.

Many are imbedded in the pavement and ,simply confirm that you are on course.

Several are unique and direct you with a personal touch.

A good number are hidden from plain view and often overlooked.

And every now and then I find one that should be banned from the Camino. Taxi, really?

My search for those arrows and shells fortunately did not distract me from the historical sights, like the 12th century Templar castle and spectacular vistas on the way to Villafranca.

For the next 9 days, I will continue to search for those yellow arrows until I step into Santiago.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

To My Loving Family and Dear Friends

October 10

I woke up this morning knowing that it was a special day on the Camino. I would travel to the highest point of my journey and visit an enduring symbol of the way of St. James - La Cruz de Ferro. A simple cross stands 4,940 feet above sea level and marks the place where pilgrims reconnect with the purpose of their walk and leave a stone or other token of love and blessing. I had been carrying 2 stones with me to add to the pile of collective momentos. One I left for my family and friends who have been such an important part of my life, and another for a dear friend with special intentions. 

Everything about the walk to Molinaseca was uplifting, despite the 17 miles of steep ascent and descent over very rocky paths. There was a palpable sense of euphoria among the pilgrims, and for good reason.

The views were stunning from beginning to end . . .

The camaraderie was contagious . . .

There was plenty of time for reflection and relaxation . . .

The day ended as it should - with a wonderful Camino family dinner!

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

Natural Transition

October 9

Today's walk felt like a transition point for me. Perhaps it is because Santiago is a mere 160 miles away. Maybe it is because I see the end to a journey that I thought would feel like a lifetime. Or could it be that I am already drifting back to the life I left almost a month ago?

Whatever the reason, today was different. There was a chill in the air, the foliage was turning, colors seemed more vibrant, and the cafe stops were slightly offbeat.

When I arrived in Rabanal del Camino after walking about 13 miles, I had no interest in the usual downtime at the hotel. I just wanted to take in this small town of 500 people where pilgrims have gathered for many years.  So I settled in at one of the bars with a cafe con leche to talk about life on the Camino - or anything else for that matter.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

Walking Beyond Our Limits on the Way to Astorga

October 7 - 8

The suggestion was first made as an offhanded comment at breakfast and, not surprisingly, on the heels of a day of rest in Leon. "Why don't we walk a marathon today?" There were blank stares around the table with reactions ranging from "let's see how we feel after 10 or so miles" to "that would be nothing short of a fool's errand." But, after much back and forth and a few miles of walking, the idea took hold. So, under the influence of an enthusiastic cheerleader and the support of a thoughtful pacesetter, the marathon was on!

We walked most of the 26.2 miles on wide, natural paths with a slight breeze at our backs and under incredible cloud formations. It was a day of solitude with what I suspect were passing thoughts by some about why we were adding a marathon to an otherwise challenging Camino. At times, the road ahead seemed endless and the next town out of reach.

Along the way, we stopped to stretch, snack and plan our next steps. Eight hours later we crossed the finish line in the town of Hospital de Orbigo. Mission accomplished!

Given that we now had a relatively short walk to Astoria, and our bodies were calling for extra rest, we did not suit up the next morning until close to 10:30 am. I also got the strong sense from my Camino family that they were not interested in any more of my bright ideas for adventure, at least not for now.

The walk to Astorga, in stark contrast to yesterday, was a short 10 miles and somewhat of a Camino frolic with time to smell the roses. See for yourselves . . .

All is well that ends well. On Camino Jim's recommendation, we had an incredible dinner at a family-owned restaurant across from the Catedral. As we toasted the last 2 days, I silently raised my glass to only 12 more days of walking to Santiago!

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~