The Many Faces of the Camino

October 16

Sarria, where we stayed last night, is a bustling modern city of slightly more than 13,000 people. It was a major medieval center for pilgrims, and the city's churches, monastery as well as castle ruins have preserved an ancient atmosphere in the old quarter.

The city of Sarria has also become a major starting place for pilgrims who want to walk a shorter distance of about 60 miles and still obtain a Compostela at Santiago. This is the point where an outpouring of pilgrims arrives by bus or rail to start their Camino. It is also the time when "seasoned" pilgrims become irritated with the intrusion of so many who are seen as taking the easy way out to Santiago.

I must admit that I had to guard against this sense of false superiority. When I thought about it, I realized that not everyone is fortunate enough to have the time or ability to walk 500 miles - and these new pilgrims have just as much right to walk this path as I do. After a couple of miles of grumbling, "our family" made a pact that we would accept the new face of the Camino and welcome all pilgrims with an open mind and heart.

Today's 14-mile walk to Portomarin was mostly on welcomed gravel tracks through woodlands and small towns. The ups and downs were gentle and, for the most part, were hardly noticed. As I entered one of the small villages, I was drawn to a woman standing by the road wishing passing pilgrims Buen Camino. She, like so many others, has been an important part of my Camino experience. The Spanish people have greeted us at our hotels at the end of every walk, served us countless cafe con leches, bocadillos and pilgrims' dinners, and tended to our many foot needs as we limped into the Farmacias. I wonder whether they really appreciate the difference they can make in the life of a pilgrim.  In many ways, they are the face of the Camino.

Today was also a milestone. Somewhere along the path to Portomarin, we passed the 100-kilometer marker - 60 miles give or take - to Santiago. I know it is too early to celebrate but a thumbs up is certainly in order.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~