The Gift of Santiago . . . and a Final Stop at Finisterre

October 20 - 21

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow a mystery and today a gift. That is why it is called the present." Anonymous.

Today, I completed the last of 500 miles and received the gift of entering Santiago as a full-fledged Camino pilgrim!

I was guided to Santiago by the pilgrims of old pointing to the city of my destination . . .

The official Compostela verifying my completion of the pilgrimage and a certificate that I really walked 500 miles were quite different from any of the other diplomas I had hung on my walls over the years.

I arrived early for a front row seat at the pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral, eagerly hoping to see the swinging of the huge incense burner Botafumeiro - one of the largest in the world, reaching a height of 68 feet in an arc extending 213 feet. The story is told that the incense was originally used to fumigate sweaty and disease-ridden pilgrims but is now a standing room only experience at selected Masses. The ritual requires 8 attendant tiraboleiros to perform and almost escapes description.

Our Camino family celebrated an incredible journey and Bill's 61st birthday late into the evening - having to remind ourselves that there would be no alarm blaring or backpack and hiking boots waiting for us in the morning.

The next day we treated ourselves to a comfortable car ride for the epilogue to the Camino. We strolled the beach in Louro, sat on the ocean rocks in Muxia, and visited Finisterre - a cape in the Atlantic Ocean known as the end of the world and the final stop for pilgrims who want to take it to the edge.

My Camino is now complete and I am counting down the hours until I return home to the "present" I have truly missed - my hubby, family and friends.

~ Pilgrim Carol ~

An Emotional Walk . . . the End of My Journey Nears

October 19

I put on my hiking boots and backpack this morning with very mixed emotions. I was trying to grapple with the reality that today's walk to Rua would end my journey as a "working" pilgrim, although I would not reach Santiago and receive the Compostela until tomorrow. In my mind, tomorrow's final 12-mile walk into Santiago would simply be a celebration. We will be leaving at 4:30 am, equipped with headlamps, precisely timed to reach the top of the hill overlooking Santiago at sunrise. But for today, I had another 13 miles to contemplate life.

If the truth be told, I started the walk to Rua aimlessly putting one foot in front of the other, struggling to find a purpose for my day. As only the Camino can do, my thoughts were soon consumed with the many special people in my life who made this journey possible.

To my family and friends . . . for all of your kind words of encouragement, and humor, that kept me going mile after mile.

To my Camino family . . . for your continuing support, laughter and reflections that made the Camino a memory of a lifetime.

To my Camino partner Bill . . . for agreeing to embark on this walk in the first place, keeping me on the right path day after day, and joining me in living the Camino to its fullest.

To my Mom and Dad . . . for the life you created for me and the values you taught me that have led to this journey.

To my dear Hubby Floyd . . . for encouraging me to live my dreams, however wild they may be, and always keeping a loving and watchful eye over me.

To Camino Jim and Robin . . . for inspiring me to experience this walk, and all of the guidance you have given me every step of the way.

Camino Jim, only 19 kilometers - about 12 miles - before I follow your footsteps into Santiago. See you there in spirit tomorrow . . .

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

Octopus's Garden

October 18

It was wonderful to wake up this morning at Casa Leopoldo, an absolutely enchanting 6-bedroom home owned by 3 sisters. You could see their love and care in welcoming pilgrims in every square inch of their home. We found ourselves lingering around the kitchen table long after we finished a tasty homemade breakfast . . .

Today's walk to Arzua was almost 19 miles but seemed much shorter to me. I suspect I just lost track of time wandering in and out of the forests, admiring the old stone walls, and watching villagers go about their business.

Not wanting to miss out on one of the highlights in this area, we also sampled the renowned octopus pulpo in Melide. It was well worth the stop!

I had to laugh when I heard Bill singing, "I'd like to be under the sea in an octopus' garden in the shade."  The Beatles seemed to have summed up our day quite nicely.

                                                             ~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

Secretly Wishing for Rain

October 17

As you may have noticed, the weather has been ideal for most of my journey so far. But I have not forgotten Camino Jim's stories about walking through torrential rains and sinking into deep mud for miles on end. For some strange reason, I wanted that experience - and had high hopes that my wish would come true today!

I started the 15-mile walk to Palas de Rei under heavy clouds and steady drizzle. The  skies ahead were gray and the path into the woods was somber. So far, so good.

I soon passed a pilgrim who was getting up from a night's sleep outside seeking protection from the rain.

Before too long, I came upon cattle lying down in the field, which my mother had told me as a child meant rainy weather ahead. All was going as planned.

Light rain continued to fall . . . and, finally, my hiking boots found that deep mud.

In the end, the torrential rains did not come, the fog began to lift and the sun appeared. It soon became clear to me that this was the perfect backdrop for a day of reflection. Just another reminder that the Camino does not always deliver what you want but what you truly need . . .

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

The Many Faces of the Camino

October 16

Sarria, where we stayed last night, is a bustling modern city of slightly more than 13,000 people. It was a major medieval center for pilgrims, and the city's churches, monastery as well as castle ruins have preserved an ancient atmosphere in the old quarter.

The city of Sarria has also become a major starting place for pilgrims who want to walk a shorter distance of about 60 miles and still obtain a Compostela at Santiago. This is the point where an outpouring of pilgrims arrives by bus or rail to start their Camino. It is also the time when "seasoned" pilgrims become irritated with the intrusion of so many who are seen as taking the easy way out to Santiago.

I must admit that I had to guard against this sense of false superiority. When I thought about it, I realized that not everyone is fortunate enough to have the time or ability to walk 500 miles - and these new pilgrims have just as much right to walk this path as I do. After a couple of miles of grumbling, "our family" made a pact that we would accept the new face of the Camino and welcome all pilgrims with an open mind and heart.

Today's 14-mile walk to Portomarin was mostly on welcomed gravel tracks through woodlands and small towns. The ups and downs were gentle and, for the most part, were hardly noticed. As I entered one of the small villages, I was drawn to a woman standing by the road wishing passing pilgrims Buen Camino. She, like so many others, has been an important part of my Camino experience. The Spanish people have greeted us at our hotels at the end of every walk, served us countless cafe con leches, bocadillos and pilgrims' dinners, and tended to our many foot needs as we limped into the Farmacias. I wonder whether they really appreciate the difference they can make in the life of a pilgrim.  In many ways, they are the face of the Camino.

Today was also a milestone. Somewhere along the path to Portomarin, we passed the 100-kilometer marker - 60 miles give or take - to Santiago. I know it is too early to celebrate but a thumbs up is certainly in order.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~

Back to the Earth

October 15

A strange thing happened to me today. I woke up this morning with a strong sense that I would find some connection with the earth during my walk to Sarria.  As soon as I stepped outside, I could feel the dampness and cool breeze. I bundled up and set my sights on a 13-mile adventure back to the earth not knowing what I would find. I was pleasantly surprised.

The path took me in and out of mystical woodlands.

I also discovered whimsical mushrooms.

I wandered through several small farm towns along the way.

I encountered a local working dog . . . and a Camino dog at rest.

Strange-looking white cows watched me walk by.

Just in case there was any doubt about what I was experiencing, a couple of chance meetings put the issue to rest. First there was Simon from Autralia, the owner of a commune and heartwarming cafe for pilgrims. He personally welcomed each of us with an array of food, a cozy place to rest, and a warm hug. Simon offered to draw a stamp on my pilgrims' credentials, and I smiled to myself when I saw that it was a tree with sprawling roots.

Next, we visited Antonio from Galacia, an artist who worked with rocks and minerals. He was cooking fresh organic food from his garden for the commune when we arrived. I could not resist connecting with several of his gemstones and watched on as he drew and autographed a stamp in my pilgrims' credentials.

I finally arrived in Sarria . . . having experienced my connection with the earth!

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~ 

Taking It All In . . . and Wondering

October 14

I will remember this day long after I finish the Camino. It was a day of incredible beauty and peaceful contemplation. As strange as it may sound, I did not want the 14-mile walk to Triacastela to come to an end. Maybe if I just continued to walk, the natural splendor and tranquility would follow me. 

At the very least, I would carry those images back with me in case I had to be reminded.

I also spent time walking alone thinking about the many pilgrims I met along the way. Some I talked to in passing, others I spent time with from town to town, and many simply crossed my path. We were different in so many ways - where we lived, our backgrounds and life experiences, why we were walking the Camino, and how we approached our journey. But we were united as pilgrims by the common goal of reaching Santiago.

I thought back to some of the pilgrims who had touched me for one reason or another and wondered whether I would see them again. I wondered about . . .

Peter, from the Czech Republic, who had been walking since February, slept in open churches, and adopted 2 stray dogs along the way.

Paul, from Toronto, who accumulated blisters as a badge of honor and proudly shared the latest count and supporting photos.

The 88-year-old man who said very little and plodded along from town to town in what appeared to be his work clothes, and had become somewhat of a hero among the pilgrims.

The young couple from France who carried their 6-month-old daughter pulling their belongings in a suitcase behind them.

I also wondered whether I would see the young brother with cerebral palsy, who you earlier met, arrive in Santiago. Eventually, I returned to the here and now . . . to complete the day's walk to Triacastela with some of the pilgrims who had truly become a special part of my journey.

~ Buen Camino, Carol ~